A day trip to Aegina
The heavy snow in Athens and throughout Greece made headlines this
February in one of the most rare
winter in Athens with a heavy snow fall that kept only 2 days
unfortunatelly. The temperature on Monday and Tuesday (18th and 19th)
was between -5 and -1 centigrade in Athens, but on Wednesday we woke up
to glorious blue skies and the streets bathed in golden sunshine. With
a sudden change in temperature, soaring to a delicious 17 degrees, it
seemed the perfect day to do the Athenian thing and take a day trip to
Aegina. Only 30 km away from Piraeus, the 40 minute hydrofoil trip
at 22 euros return and leaving every half-hour was money well spent.
The only problem with hydrofoils however, is that there is very little
outer deck and, if you want to enjoy the trip, and watch the scenery
whilst having a smoke the only place to do this is the small open deck
at the back of the craft. Nevertheless, the boat was practically empty
and we were the only two who wanted to stand outside and enjoy the
amazing views created by the crystal clean atmosphere that gave a
visibility of dozens of miles.
As the boat was leaving the Port of
Piraeus
you could see the whole Attica Basin and the still snowy peaks of
Parinitha, Penteli and Hymetus mountains. Within 10-15 minutes of
departure we were passing over the west coast of Salamina, where fleets
of cargo and container ships lay in anchorage near and around the coast
of Salamina waiting their turn to unload or load their goods from the
commercial Port of Piraeus in Keratsini and Ikonio. After only a
further 5 minutes Salamina is left behind and, in the distance to the
south, Aegina can already be seen across the glittering blue Saronic
Gulf.
Our
approach from the north side of the island gave us enchanting vistas of
the numerous villas that have been built on Aegina in the last 20
years. These properties are owned mostly by Athenians as summer houses
but also many people from Europe have seen Aegina as the perfect place
for a summer residence as well. Just before the hydrofoil turns south
towards the port of Aegina we speed past the newly built, huge marina
with all kinds of yachts and crafts moored up for the winter months.
Finally, there shines Aegina town, the first capital of Unified Greece.
Perhaps it is because of this that Aegina Town still maintains an aura
of 'aristocratic sophistication' with its wide promenade lined with
cafes, its typical neoclassical buildings and attractive 19th century
villas, and its elegant ponies and old-fashioned carriages lined up
waiting to take you around the town. There is also a beautiful church
and, the prettiest of all, the tiny church of Saint Nicholas which
stands at the entrance to the port. This tiny church is our first stop
after the hydrofoil docks and we enter into its beautifully painted
interior to light candles for our loved ones.
I
made my first visit to Aegina when I was only 6 years old, and have
visited it many times since, but I had never before taken a ride in a
pony and carriage. This trip however, the first thing I did, after
lighting candles at St. Nicholas church, was to take a 30 minute
carriage ride - not to see the attractions as advertised but mostly to
enjoy 30 minutes of carriage riding through the beautiful streets of
Aegina and out amongst the pistachio trees and pines. Though it was
February, the almond trees were in full blossom and the landscape was
alive with the whispering of the coming of springtime.
It was already 2pm when Dimitris our carriage driver brought us back to
the main promenade. We then took a stroll through the pedestrianised
streets of the town with its numerous shops of all kinds. Aegina has
this amazing advantage of being an island with all that is most charming
about all Greek islands, and also is a highly developed suburb of Athens
in matters of shopping, eating out and night life. Music bars, night
clubs, cinemas, fashion boutiques are all here. It is something that is
rarely found anywhere else - a combination of an idyllic island with all
the bonuses of a big city suburb.
There
is also plenty of history to be found on the island. Very close to the
port of Aegina is the ancient Apollo Temple, the remains of which are a
few metres away from Avra beach. here too is the museum that has
ancient relics from that time as well as exhibits and information of how
Aegina came to have the first printing press, museum, library and Mint
of modern Greece. Also there still stands the beautiful Markelos Tower
which was built in the 19th century by Spyros Markelos a member of the
Greek Parliament and one of the local leaders during the Greek war of
Independence, the tower was the headquarters of the Greek government
from 1826-1827 and from 1828-1829 was used for offices of the Greek
cabinet as well as other buildings founded by Ioannis Kapodistrias the
first Governor of Greece.
Here,
too you can find many beautiful neoclassical villas, one of which was
used in the 1960s film, 'Holidays in Aegina' starring a very young Aliki
Vougiouklaki and Andreas Barkoulis. Indeed, this film as well as all
the other attractions of the island have made Aegina one of the most
popular holiday resorts for Greeks in Athens and Piraeus.
I asked Dimitris, the carriage driver, if the Aegina people live and
work on the island or whether many of its population commute over to the
mainland for their daily work. He told me that almost 90% of the
population live and work on the island, employed as pistachio farmers,
fishermen, retail workers or in the tourist business. Real estate also
is flourishing all over the island. Unfortunately for us, the prices of
the beautiful apartments and villas are only affordable to those with
large amounts of money!
After
our stroll we stopped for lunch in one of the most well-known places in
Aegina the Skotadis Kafe restaurant. Dream of the best
Greek mezes and you will find it here! Kalamaris, merides, shrimps,
octopus, grilled biftekia (Greek hamburgers), chops and keftedes (meat
balls), mixed salads of broccoli, courgettes and horta, skordalia and
tirokafteri - all there to enjoy with a karafaki of ouzo or a kilo of
red wine or Retsina. We feasted like kings and finally waddled off to
buy some souvenirs to remind us of our wonderful winter's day trip to
this beautiful sunny island. Weighed down now by not only our sumptuous
lunch but also a large clay Stamna pot (typical of the region) a half a
kilo of home grown pistachio nuts, jars of honey stuffed full of
pistachio nuts and bags of the marshmallow-like Greek sweet, Vanilla,
made of mastic and sugar we rested at a nearby cafe, drinking coffee and
eating the traditional ipovrihio - 'submarine' (a wonderfully smooth and
chewy concoction of mastic, vanilla, pistachio and sugar which clings in
a sweet, gooey clump to the spoon immersed in a glass of water) until
the hydrofoil came in to take us back to Piraeus.See the
Aegina map and enjoy as well our
pictures of Aegina from this unforgettable day trip.
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